To the south east of Leh lies a region that is still less frequented by tourists. The area borders the Grat Changtang Plateau of Tibet. Amidst a barren landscape live small groups of nomadic Chang tribesmen leading a harsh existence. Tucked away in a remote area of this region at an altitude of 14432 ft. is one of nature’s wonders – the lake of Tso Moriri. The 15-by-5 mile lake is a breeding ground to birds like the bar-necked geese and the brahminy duck. The surrounding area is home to some rare wild life such as the Kyang (wild ass), blue sheep, marmots and the snow leopard.
The starting point of Tsomoriri Trek is Rumtse (4100m) which is approximately 70 kms. from Leh. The route traverses across a number of high passes and while the scenery is spectacular the entire route is through high altitude and requires good acclimatization. Rumtse Trek is definately one of the most enjoyable treks.
Day 01 : Leh- Rumtse (3 hrs drive)- Kyamar 4050 m (4 hrs)
From Leh, the drive to Rumtse is an exciting one, with views of the Indus Valley and many monasteries on the way. Day one is easily manageable: we have a short walk on a rather flat terrain to aid acclimatization. We will camp overnight at lush Kyamar, near a spring.
Day 02 : Kyamar- Tisaling 4200 m (6-7 hrs)
We should be fully energized today with proper breakfast for a challenging day ahead. We begin with gradual ascent towards our first pass of Kumur La (4800 m), which gives a spectacular view of the Changthang range with its colorful rife of mountain. After the pass, we steadily descend towards the base of the next pass. Here we might come across nomads with their herds of sheep, goats and yaks. After a short rest, we set out for Mandalchan La (4850 m). From this pass it’s an easy descend to the camping site at the pastureland of Tisaling.
Day 03 : Tisaling – Ponganabu 4250 m (6 hrs)
By now, we are well acclimatized to conquer our third pass, the Shibuk La (4900 m), and about 2-hour journey. From the top of the pass, we have an incredible view of the surrounding mountains and of our next destination, Tsokar Lake. With a breathtaking view to ease our exhaustion, we head down towards the valley accompanied by the shrill whistles of the shy and active marmots, which is characteristic of this harsh region. It’s approximately a 4 hrs walk to the Tsokar basin, and our camp for the night will be the windy Pongunabu.
Day 04 : Ponganagu – Nuruchan 4300 m (6 hrs)
Today is an easy day, and we follow a dusty jeep road towards Tsokar Lake. Along the salty shores of the lake, we have a rare impeccable opportunity to see some of the endangered migratory birds of the world. From here we carry on along the trail to the right of the lake, keeping to a barren land until Nuruchan, where we will be welcomed by a grassy land with streams nearby.
Day 05 : Nuruchan- Gyamar Barma 5100 m (7-8 hrs)
We have to get set for a tough day ahead. We will cross the icy cold stream in Nuruchan before gradually ascending Horlam Kongka La (4900 m). From the pass, we will have a view of the turquoise blue Tsokar. After an easy 40-minute walk down to Rajungkaru, we will encounter several typical Tibetan nomads with their flock of yaks, sheep and pashmina goats. Following the stream for about 50 minutes, we will enter another nomad settlement. These nomads are of Western Tibetan origin. When the Chinese subjugated Tibet these nomads and their animals faced numerous hardships, fighting biting cold and losing many lives while fleeing into Ladakh from Tibet.
After sharing a cup of butter tea with the nomads, we will continue to ascend the Kyamayuru La (5410 m); this pass is challenging in nature, but the magnificent view from the top makes it well worth all our strenuous efforts. From the pass we descend gradually to the valley towards our campsite at Gyamar Barma (5150 m). Due to the campsite’s high altitude, bad weather can make night temperature freezing.
Day 06 : Gyamar Barma – Gyamar 5200 m (3-4 hrs)
When we open our eyes in the morning, we will find ourselves amidst a herd of grazing yaks. After breakfast, we head to our next pass, Kartse La (5300 m). Ascending slowly in the thin air of the plateau, we will eventually reach the pass. The trail leads gradually down to the lush green valley of the Gyamar, where we spend our night.
Day 07 : Gyamar – Korzok 4500 m (6-7 hrs)
Today, we gradually ascend towards the highest and final pass on the trek. Following the narrow valley until the Yalung Nyaulung La (5450 m), we will see some of the rare flowers and herbs of the Himalayan region. The fragrances will astonish you! To our right we can view snowcapped mountains and from the top of the pass we will also have a view of the lake Tsomoriri, surrounded by snowcapped mountains. We descend steeply for a couple of hours to the Korzok Phu, the summer pasture of the Korzok people. From the pasture, we continue to the Korzok (Tsomoriri lake), the destination of our adventure.
Day 08 : Korzok – Leh (7 hrs drive)
We drive back to Leh along the gorges of the mighty Indus with all these good memories in mind, leaving behind the beautiful lake Tsomoriri.
